At the moment I don’t charge by the hour, I charge by the job.

I’ll give you a quote for the Tune-Up, and possibly an estimate on repairs and restoration. We’ll then discuss any further alterations or repairs after I have fully evaluated the amp.

Why not hourly? I like taking my time measuring random aspects of amps, documenting the weird transitional things (wait… grounded 3-prong AC cord but a 2-prong convenience outlet? Cool!), things like that.

And the fact is most techs have to do complicated calculus to figure out how much time was work-time vs. not. For example, does everyone actually charge for the extra 7min 42seconds it took to get that especially sticky chassis out of the cab? Or it takes 10 minutes extract a spare part from donor amp to install in yours… is that on you for having an amp that needs the part, or on them for not having the part ready? Honestly I don’t know, so I’m not dealing with the complications of hourly rates, at least for now.

Yes, but with limitations.

As usual, we’ll start with a thorough non-altering Tune-Up. This often fixes an amp’s issues.

From there, repairs or modifications are dependent on how well documented and serviceable the PCB and repair needed. For example, modern Fender amps are well documented and are somewhat kinda serviceable (despite time-consuming and annoying design choices) such as the Blues, Hot Rod, and ‘65 Reissue amps. Other brands… not so much.

I will almost definitely not attempt to repair a Class-D, fully solid-state, or IC/surface-mount computer-chip based amp. I might offer a Tune-Up, that’s it. I can refer you to shops that specialize in that work.

More on Class-D amps in the next FAQ below.

No, I will not attempt to repair these units. I might offer the Tune-Up service to see if a gallon of contact cleaner will fix the issues, but that’s it.

(Actually I have fixed several mixers with some special fader cleaner so… yeah, contact me.)

BUT! These are all more akin to computers and are often not designed to be serviced; in fact, parts are often epoxied to the circuit board, making replacement impossible. Official warrantee work (for which I am not certified) often prescribes removing entire circuit boards with components attached, throwing it in the garbage, and replacing the board with a new unit from the manufacture.

There’s barely a diagnostic process — identify board, toss, and replace. That’s “repairing” in the Class-D world.

I can help you find official manufacturer service centers if any are located in our area.

Yes! I have a wide variety of modern new, in-the-box preamp and power tubes, matched pairs/quads/sextets, and a wide selection of UGB (used but good!) tubes that have been thoroughly tested on my Hickok 752 tube tester and power/mA ratings recorded.

I’ll beat online prices!

I also have weird tubes (compactions, radio stuff, ornamental neon tubes, others) so let me know what you’re looking for.

As for other parts: I have repair parts (resistors, capacitors, terminal strips, etc) but I don’t carry a massive inventory. But, if need something, feel free to ask, and I’ll try to help you out.

Maybe? But I’ll suggest that you try everything else first. Master volume mod? Try an attenuator first. Gain mod? There are about 1 million pedals out there… and they all suck? Add an effects loop? Well that one is pretty much a hard no.

You really should try all the non-invasive options first before deciding to drill holes through your amp chassis, then try to find some crazy way to cut traces and jumper wires across the PCB… yikes.

You get everything back. Even the broken stuff. That carbon comp resistor that disintegrated to dust when we looked at it sideways? That cracked vacuum tube? The shredded original (or not) AC cord? You get it all back.

Pro tip: if I hand you a bag of filter capacitors that are leaking toxic goo, hold your nose before opening it. Phew!

No, not at this time. We only accept local drop-off and pick-up at our shop in Denver, CO.

(Okay, for a buzzilion dollars maybe. If you really, really want to work with me, contact me.)

If we’re having this conversation, we have discussed the situation and you agreed to proceed with The Vintage Tone opening up the amp and incurring at least the Bench Fee.

From there, we either did not feel comfortable with the changes requested, required, or the complexity of the job. We reserve the right to turn down or stop any job. This is for your benefit.

Why do you still have to pay? Because we spent time on your amp, performed significant research, likely used shop materials or even installed/replaced parts, all of which will be detailed on your itemized invoice.

In addition you will receive a report with our analysis, work done, current state of your amp, photos if applicable, and where and why we stopped. You can take this to another amp tech which will be valuable information for to them, increasing the chance of successfully fixing your amp.

Little Charlie’s Spanish Rice, made with a slug of El Pato.

No. I promise. I’m just a normal, sane, and rational guy that you might want to shoot the breeze with or enjoy a brew, be it coffee, tea, or IPA! We’re all just guitar, amp, and music fans, right? No reason to get all controversial!

But, for the record:

• The Earth is round.

• Birds are real.

• Jet airplanes are emitting exhaust and water vapor but not… alien lizard pheromones or something? I don’t even know what to say.

• Radio waves are not cooking our brains.

• If you think vaccines are fake or have tiny government-controlled robots in them, STAY OUT OF MY SHOP ! I’m not going to die of smallpox because of your dumb ass.

Let’s all just through life alive and make amazing music and friendships!